Property tax on new constuction homes

Yesterday I was following up with a home buyer who I wrote about previously at Mortgage Porter.  They wanted a second opinion on their Good Faith Estimate which I provided.  It’s really hard to beat "builder credits" for working with their preferred lender when the purchase and sale agreement is all ready written.   If you have not presented the offer, you can always have the offer presented with the same credit and using YOUR lender…especially these days!

I was truly pleased to hear that the home buyer did indeed close and receive the rate they were expecting.   Here is their response:

"…The lender was nice enough to waive the processing fees ($750) after I complain about the high fees, however they did charge me the discount point fee.   I guess it never hurts to compare and complain.  I was able to utilize all the $8000 toward closing.   

The only thing that shock me was the property tax.  All the time I was quoted the land value property tax only. I chose to pay the land plus home value property tax at closing because I had to utilize all of the $8000 closing credit.  It added up to be 1.27% of my purchase price of $455,000.  How is property tax calculated?"

I always say to focus on the total costs shown on Section 800 and compare that with the rates of others…but you do need to be aware of other "tricks" that may happen.   Loan Officers should not under estimate property taxes.   Unless you provide your LO with a property address and the home has been assessed (not new construction), the going estimate in our neck of the woods is 1.25% of the sales price.   

For example, if your buying a newly constructed home with a sales price of $500,000; the monthly taxes should be $520.83.  (500,000 x 1.25%/12 months).

If your estimate is lower; you may want to question the lender and/or real estate agent.  It’s possible that if the seller may be receiving a Senior Citizen tax exemption greatly reducing the amount they pay; unless you qualify for their exemption, you’ll have the full bill.

With new construction, it’s very important to make sure enough taxes are collected to cover what will be due once the Tax Assessor decides how much your lovely new home is worth.   If there is a difference in what was collected, you will be paying if it’s short (aka omit taxes) and you may receive a refund from your lender when your escrow/reserve account is reviewed or King County will refund overpaid taxes when more than the full year was paid.

When I provide a Good Faith Estimate I request the property address so that I can research what the property taxes are.  Most local counties have this information available on-line for consumers, too.

I’ll do a post in the future addressing how property taxes on existing homes are calculated.

By the way, I always welcome your questions.  If you’re wondering about a certain mortgage or home purchase issue, chances are someone else is too.   Your question may help someone else in your shoes. 

Why you should make sure your condo is on the FHA approved list

Approved

Editors Update: Loan limits are different than what’s reflected below from when this article was originally written.  Check with your local FHA approved Mortgage Originator to see what your loan limits are (or click on the link in the second paragraph).  

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Picking your next mortgage by rate shopping? You might as well be playing Liar’s Poker.

Poker_2

Rate shopping to select who will be assisting you with your next mortgage is similar to playing “liars poker”.  The Loan Originator who is the most successful at bluffing wins.  The fact is, unless you’re locking in the rate at the moment you’re shopping, you don’t have that rate.  It’s a rate quote–that’s all. Mortgage rates change throughout the day.  They are based on mortgage backed securities: bonds.   Some lenders I work with offer “live pricing” and others issue rate sheets; sometimes we can have several rate sheets offered by a lender during one day.

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You don’t need 20% down to buy a house: 100% and 97% LTVs

In light of the tightening guidelines in the mortgage industry, I can understand how a consumer might think they need to save up a hefty down payment to purchase a home.   The fact is, there are many programs available that allow minimum down payments.   Here’s a small sample:

Conventional

Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac both offer 100% loan to value programs with either LPMI (lender paid mortgage insurance) or monthly private mortgage insurance.  Conforming loan limits do apply (currently $417,000 for a single family dwelling).   620 minimum credit score.   These programs may allow gifts from family as well.

FHA

The down payment for a FHA insured mortgage is approximately 3%.  Sellers can contribute up to 6% as long as the buyer is investing a minimum of 3% into the transaction.    Gifts from family are acceptable for the entire down payment and closing costs.   Loan limits do apply.   Very competitive interest rates with low monthly mortgage insurance (upfront mortgage insurance is financed into the loan).   FHA mortgages do not use credit scores (it does consider credit history) and do consider alternative credit for borrowers who have not established a credit history.

VA

The original zero down loan created for Veterans.   Sellers can pay all of the closing costs if negotiated in the purchase and sale agreement (also referred to as "double zero down").  Interest rates are very competitive with conforming rates.  There is an upfront VA funding fee that is typically financed into the mortgage.  There is no monthly mortgage insurance.   

To find out if you qualify for one of these programs, contact a qualified Mortgage Professional in your area.   Be wary of any lender who instantly steers you away from FHA or VA financing.  This could simply be a case of them not being an approved lender and therefore they’re not able to offer it.

Regardless of what the underwriting findings are on any of these loans, when you’re buying a home, I strongly recommend that you have a minimum of 3-6 months of savings available in your accounts after closing.   Life happens…even when you own a home and it’s best to have an emergency cushion in the event you need it.

Comparing Good Faith Estimates

Earlier a Mortgage Porter reader contacted me regarding working with their Builder’s Loan Originator.   They faxed their Good Faith Estimate to me to help review their closing cost fees associated with the rate.   You can click on either estimate for a larger view.   Here is the Builder’s preferred lender’s estimate 30 Year at 6.25% (APR 6.4246%):  Scan0002

Here is my estimate 30 Year Fixed at 6.25% (APR 6.442%):

Scan0001_4

When comparing good faith estimates:

  1. Make sure you’re obtaining the same lock periods (in this case, both estimates are for 60 Day Locks) and that you’re getting your estimates at the same time on the same day (I used a rate sheet from October 10, 2007).
  2. Add up all the costs shown in Section 800 of the Good Faith Estimate.   The total cost for the Builder’s GFE is $5200 and my GFE total cost is $4332.60.   This is a difference of $867.40 (my estimate has lower costs).
  3. Ask each LO if they will guarantee the closing costs shown in Section 800.   If they don’t, ask why not and listen hard.   There’s no reason a LO cannot back up the closing costs they promote on a GFE once a borrower is approved and the loan is locked. 

NOTE:  The Builder Lender’s APR is lower than what I’m quoting, yet my APR is higher even though my costs are lower for the same rate.   This is once again evidence why you DO NOT SHOP YOUR MORTGAGE BY APR.

I’m assuming the buyer has signed a purchase and sale agreement with the Builder who is offering a $5,000 closing costs credit if the buyer works with their lender.    They’re charging a 0.25% Discount Fee (shown on Line 802 of both estimates) where I would not.   The buyer should ask the builder’s lender why they’re charging a discount for that rate for 60 days when other lenders are not.   

When you’re receiving a credit from a builder, you certainly want to make sure that you are receiving the full benefit and that it’s not being absorbed by the lender.

How Do Lenders Hide Fees?

I received this email from a reader last night:Magichat

I’m about to close on a home in Washington with a [major builder in a subdivision].  This is my first home and I enjoy reading your blogs.  I’m in the process of shopping for a lender.  I just wonder if you had any experience with [Builders Mortgage Company].  I’m being offered $5,000 toward closing fees [if I work with the builders lender].  I have been told to watch out for hidden fees that would wash away the $5,000 in the long run.  The good faith estimate is comparable with other lenders.  How can a lender hide fees?  How much time do I have left before I have to decide on a lender?

How can a lender hide fees?

For starters, the house could have the credit for the closing cost built into the sales price.   I have worked with agents who have negotiated the same credit working with me (not the builders preferred company).  Some builders won’t budge.
On a good faith estimate, a Loan Originator may claim that certain fees are estimates only.   You really should only shop a LO by the fees shown in section 800 of the Good Faith Estimate.   And as I’ve discussed in previous posts, rate shopping can be quite a fruitless task.      Ask a Mortgage Professional, perhaps one that you received an estimate from all ready, to review the good faith estimates that you have all ready received.   

I suggest asking your Loan Originator if they will guarantee your closing costs within $100 of Section 800 of your Good Faith Estimate.   This means that once you are approved and have locked in your interest rate, the LO should be able to provide you with closing costs plus or minus $100.   If they won’t guarantee this, I would find a LO who will.

Watch for prepayment penalties which are disclosed on your Federal Truth in Lending.   Loan Originators can make up for dollars lost there.   If the box marked on the TIL states their “may be” a prepayment penalty, ASK!  If you find out at closing you have a prepayment penalty and your Loan Originator did not disclose this upfront, don’t stand for it!   The Escrow Officer should not be the person informing  you of a prepayment penalty.   

Some Loan Originators will play with costs outside of section 800 on the GFE to make their fees seem lower.  Title and escrow we have no control over and it can vary quite a bit.  Some LOs will throw in very lower than actual title and escrow costs.  You can ask them who they’re using for rates or what their reference is.  The purchase and sale agreement dictates who title and escrow providers are and what the level of title insurance will be.

Other ways LOs may contort their closing costs is with reserves and prepaids.  Unless you have a closing day that is set or that you’ve provided a LO, Loan Originators should use 15 days.  If they’re using 0 days of prorated interest with no closing date provided, they may be trying to pretty up their Good Faith Estimate.   The amount of taxes that is required is based on when your first mortgage payment is due.
What you really need to watch when working with a builders lender who is offering $X in closing fees is the rate at the time you lock with the builder’s lender.

Contact three people you respect and trust (tax advisor, financial planner, friend, co-worker, etc.) and ask for referrals.   Ask them for their mortgage professionals and then call and ask for rate quotes based on locking with a closing date of [when you’re closing] and based on the total fees in section 800 of the GFE.   1% in your loan amount typically equals 0.25% to rate.  If your loan amount is $500,000, and your rate is 0.25% higher than the going rate, the LO may have made $5000 to compensate for the credit.

I would never recommend going blindly with any lender unless they were referred to you by someone you all ready know and trust.  Do you know the builder personally or have any reason to trust them?  If it’s the builder’s mortgage company, they have double incentive to do your loan and there are no free lunches.

Let your LO and the escrow company know that you will require a copy of the HUD-1 Settlement Statment at least one business day prior to your signing appointment.   Compare this to your Good Faith Estimate and contact the LO and if there are descrepencies.  Bring your Good Faith Estimate to your signing appointment.   

Inform the LO when your signing appointment is and ask them to be available (by telephone at the very least).   Call your Loan Originator from your signing appointment if you find errors they need to correct and be prepared to call their bluff if they don’t.  After signing, you have less power to make corrections, if needed.   Don’t be afraid to contact your real estate agent from the signing table if you’re experience other than what you have expected from your Loan Originator. 

Escrow is (supposed to be) a neutral third party. They cannot tell you that you’re receiving a bum deal and they don’t always know for certain if you did (they may have a hunch.   I can tell you from working the escrow side before being in mortgage, things look pretty different from the Loan Originators shoes…but you witness what seems to be people getting bum deals when you’re in escrow).

How Much Time Do I Have Before I Have to Decide On a Lender?

All Loan Originators desire 30 days for closing.   Some of us “magicians” will pull off two weeks or less.  I don’t recommend this—it’s stressful for all involved.    The quicker you can decide if you want to work with the builder’s lender, the better.   However, if you feel you need to make a change and that you’re getting a bum deal from your current lender you do have the right to switch during the process.  Effective later this month, buyers will need to notify the sellers and essentially ask permission to switch lenders per the revised NWMLS purchase and sale agreements.   Depending on how the market is, this will give builder-sellers the chance to bump buyers if the homes in their subdivision are selling for more than when the contract was written.   This is all the more reason to do your homework about who your Mortgage Professional will be before you enter into a purchase and sale agreement Ideally, you should select your LO well before you begin shopping for your next home.

Hopefully you have found the right Loan Originator (what I like to refer to as a Mortgage Professional) from the get-go and this is all moot.   Please don’t blindly go with any Loan Originator that has been referred to you by someone who has an interest in your transaction closing.   If you have any doubts about your Loan Originator, get a second opinion NOW (yes, I’m shouting at ya…forgive me and thank me later).

A Sign of the Times

This photo was taken in West Seattle on October 4, 2007.Img_5931

Buyer must ask Seller if they can change loans with the new Financing Addendum

Later this month, the Northwest MLS will be releasing a newly revised purchase and sale agreement.   Of particular interest to me, as a lender, is the following on the Financing Addendum (Form 22A, page 1, paragraph 1):

"Buyer may not change the type of loan or the lender without the Seller’s prior written consent after the agreed upon time to apply for financing expires."

This is important for sellers because they would naturally assume from a preapproval letter that financing is proceeding.  However, if the buyer decides to switch lenders for whatever reason, the seller is unaware that the buyer is not moving forward based on the preapproval letter that was originally presented with the mutually accepted purchase and sale agreement.

In order to avoid giving the seller a reason to balk at a transaction in progress, it looks to me like the buyer had better be preapproved and have their financing figured out prior to writing up a purchase and sale agreement.  They should avoid program changes…and also…switching lenders mid-stream.