Part 2: Know Your Credit Score

EDITORS NOTE: What is considered a “good score” has changed quite a bit since the subprime era.

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In Part 1 of the Subprime Series, you should have found your Note and contacted your Mortgage Planner.  The next step is to review your credit report.   I suggest having your Mortgage Planner pull a tri-merge report.  They may or may not charge a fee for the cost of the report (around $20).

Whats your mid-score?  Just last year, a score of 600 was an easy mortgage transaction (for subprime)…now the bar is raising due to all of the foreclosures.  Typically, your “mid score” is going to be how you’re judged by the mortgage companies.  With a tri-merge report, you should have 3 scores ranging from 350 – 850.   Your mid score is literally the number between the highest and lowest score.   680 and above is considered to be a good credit score.   720 and higher is excellent.

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Humor and Taxes

Mpj031686800001 With April 16 rapidly approaching, the phone calls and emails from clients begin to really pick with with questions about their tax deductions.  I recommend using a CPA to help you with your taxes, especially if you’re itemizing (which you need to do in order to deduct mortgage interest).    Here are a few links you may find  helpful regarding mortgage income tax deductions:

Your Home as a Tax Shelter: Top Ten Tax Deductions for Owning Your Home

10 Real Estate Tax Breaks You Should Know

IRS Publication 530/Tax Information for First Time Homeowners

IRS Publication 936/Home Mortgage Interest

Now…a little humor to lighten this post up a bit.

"The only difference between a tax man and a taxidermist is that the taxidermist leaves the skin."  Mark Twain

"The hardest thing in the world to understand is the income tax."  Albert Einstein

"The purpose of a tax cut is to leave more money where it belongs: in the hands of the working men and working women who earned it in the first place."  Robert Dole

If you find you’re getting a nice big return back on your income taxes, you may want to consider adjusting your withholding by increasing your exemptions.  Again, this is a matter to discuss with your CPA.   There’s no reason to give the Government an interest free loan of your money when you can be taking home a little extra each month…just my 2 cents!

My First Subprime Client

Mpj042856200001_2It happened quite on accident back in 2002.  When I began my mortgage practice seven years ago, I was pretty much an "A Paper" lender.  Conventional, FHA and VA loans were my bread and butter.  The thought of doing a subprime loan made me shudder.  I knew they were out there, but I was perfectly happy sticking to my 680 and higher credit score clientele and not diving into the subprime pool.

Then one day, a Realtor, Ima Agent, asked me if I would review her brother and sister-in-law’s good faith estimate since she felt the rate and fees were a bit high.  Ima Agent told me that they had challenging credit in the past and were looking to buy "zero down".   What could I say?  I would at the very least talk with them to see if I could help.   I reviewed their good faith estimate and was surprised at the cost of doing the mortgage.   Most of our loans (to this day) are Correspondent and the closing costs are fairly low.   Brokering to a subprime lender often has Broker Fees around $795 in addition to the regular closing costs.  Of course the rates are higher too since the risk to the lender is greater.

Mr. and Mrs. Buyer are a very nice couple who were recently married and wanted to stop paying rent.   She admitted that he had a troubled past with his credit and that they had been working on improving his (and their) finances.   Their mid credit scores at the time were around 610.   Back then, I would not have known where to go for an 80/20  with a credit score below 700…except the other loan originator they had met with previously had the name of the mortgage lender he was brokering to…BINGO!    I called the lender and priced out their loan.   I was able to provide my clients a much better rate so they elected to leave the other loan originator. 

Here is what the basic guidelines were back in 2002:

  • 600 minimum mid-credit score
  • 100% total loan to value using an 80/20
  • 50% Total Debt to Income Ratio
  • First mortgage is a fixed for 2 years and amortized for 30. 
  • First mortgage has a 2 year prepayment penalty of 6 months interest.
  • Second Mortgage is amortized for 30 years and due in 15.
  • Reserves (taxes and insurance) were OPTIONAL.
  • Funds for closing were not seasoned (no bank statements provided) or sourced.
  • Seller can pay up to 6% of closing costs and prepaids (taxes and escrow).   

I reviewed their credit history with them and we developed a plan on which debts they should focus on eliminating.   They had all ready established a budget since they were working on reducing their credit card debt.  I began to feel more comfortable with helping Mr. and Mrs. Buyer with their subprime financing since I could tell they understood the responsibility of having a mortgage and being a home owner.   Ima Agent found Mr. and Mrs. Buyer their next home and we financed it with the subprime lender.    They were extremely happy in their new home they purchased in March of 2002 in Seattle for $239,500.

Shortly before their prepayment penalty was over, Mr. and Mrs. Buyer contacted me to restructure their mortgage.   They were excellent borrowers; they paid their mortgages on time as well as their other obligations and did not over extend themselves with credit.    Mr. and Mrs. Buyer with having a mortgage (which helps improve credit score) their credit scores were now in the low 700s.   I was able to provide them a long term mortgage (30 year fixed) for 5.75% and their home had appreciated to $310,000.   

I’m thankful that I took the subprime plunge.   I’ve since been able to help many home buyers who would not have qualified for an FHA or VA mortgage.   Many first time home buyers lack the 3% down or are better off leaving the 3% down in their savings account as a cushion.   

Since my first subprime loan 5 years ago, the guidelines have gone through dramatic changes.   Soon Subprime lenders were promoting 80/20 programs with interest only payments, stated income and credit scores down to 580…yikes!  With these loose guidelines, lenders are now facing record foreclosures and are now tightening their requirements for a subprime loan.    Every day I’m receiving updates from various stating that the minimum credit score for 80/20 financing is now 620 and stated income is disappearing.

I have just added a new category to Mortgage Porter:  the market toughening up, these home owners really need to minding their credit and budget so they don’t wind up in the deep end with no way out of their subprime mortgage after the rate adjust.

Your ARM May Not Be Broken

Mpj040739600001_1You may have noticed on the evening news and the local papers all the bad press about mortgages lately.   Specifically sub-prime, negative amortized ARMs a.k.a. payment option plans (which I am opposed to for 99% of the population), 100% financing and interest-only ARMs…to name a few.  Many sub prime lenders are restating their earnings and are suffering losses.  Some are closing their doors and the remaining are changing their underwriting guidelines.   It use to be very easy to obtain 100% financing with a credit score of 600…some lenders would even consider 580.   Now, the benchmark is 620.   Throughout history, lenders change underwriting guidelines based on market conditions.

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How Strong Are Your Legs?

J0384828A borrower in a mortgage transaction is kind of viewed like a chair with four legs.   The legs on the chair provide strength to the base or seat of the chair.   If one leg is shorter than the others, the chair is still strong, but may wobble a bit.   Shorten two legs and the chair becomes less stable.    Three week legs and the chair is just waiting to tip over on you.

So how strong are the legs of your chair?

Consider each of these items as one leg in your chair.

  • Employment.  Having a minimum 2 year history in your line of work (this can include education).  Employment gaps that don’t make sense to an underwriter, may cause issues with getting your mortgage approved.   A lender wants to know that you are going to be able to keep your job and therefore, make your mortgage payments on time.
  • Income.  If paid salary and regular hours, this can be pretty easy to compute.  When your hours vary, the income needs to be averaged.   Also, if you’re paid bonuses or commission and going for the best interest rate (not stated income or no income verified), then your bonuses and commissions are typically averaged for the past two years.   Debt-to-income ratios are crucial for qualifying for mortgages.   A $500 car payment equals $50,000 less home that you can purchase.
  • Savings and assets.   There are many zero down loans, even if you are considering that route, it is in your best interest to have at least three months of your future mortgage payments in savings after all closing costs are paid.  The more money you can put down towards a home, the better your interest rate will be.
  • Credit Scores.   Having scores above 680 are a worthy goal.  A score 700 or more is even better!   Pay your accounts on time.   Keep your balances below 30% of the credit limit for the best scores.   Take care of your credit and it will take care of you.   Credit is reflective.  If your credit score is on the low end, meet with a Mortgage Planner to help you develop a plan to improve your score. 

All of these factors impact how a borrower qualifies for a mortgage.    The more strong legs you have reduces the risk to the lender, which in turn means a better interest rate for you!

The Cart Before The Horse

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Note:  I was contacted by the fine folks at DFI with corrected information to this post regarding continuing education.   My corrections are either striked out or bold.

This week has been a bit crazy with mid-winter break…our three kids all have different break schedules so our family is home instead of vacationing somewhere.  This has provided me with a great opportunity to attend classes and seminars, which typically take a bit of coordinating with getting the kids to schools (they go to three different schools due to their ages).   

Anyhow, on Monday, I went to a seminar by Dustin Luther.   Dustin is the creator of Rain City Guide, a blog that I contribute to that has been a force in the Seattle Blogosphere for years.  This was actually my first time meeting Dustin!  And, the seminar was great.   I learned about Web 2.0–how the consumer is directing the web instead of the web attracting the consumer.  It was fascinating.  He is truly genuine.

Yesterday, I took my first clock hour course to retain my State of Washington Loan Originator License.   It kind of feels strange to take a course before passing an exam that is not yet available (hence the cart and horse photo…I was going for the cart before the horse…but it was taking too much time to find the right photo).   I am assuming I’ll pass the exam once it’s available (or I will be adding a post with a photo of egg on my face).   

The course is required for all Licensed Loan Originators during their first year of being licensed and is on ethics.   This one was taught by NAMB.   I wish it would have been an exam on ethics, instead this was a class or open discussion.   I typically do not attend "lender functions".   When I took the CMPS exam, I really enjoyed networking with the professionals who cared so much to fly from all over the nation to take the three day exam (25% did not pass the first test).   I was very proud to be a Loan Originator (or what ever title you wish to call me) in the company of those fellow lenders.   

At today’s class, I was fortunate to sit with two other fellows who I feel also have very high standards and ethics.   And I do believe overall, the room was filled with the same caliber of people who truly care about serving their client’s best interest before there own.  I mean, they are there spending their time BEFORE taking the exam.  (You must pass the exam to retain your license…you can re-take the exam for $125 a pop). the cost for the exam will be determined by the exam provider and is anticipated to be around $50 -$60.  DFI also recommends that BEFORE a loan originator spends their time and money on continuing education classes, they check DFI’s website to make sure the professional organization or individual course are approved for loan originators or mortgage brokers continuing education.

What was interesting to me is that when you survey a room full of people, ethics can become a bit blurry.  I left the four hour class with my certificate…I have one more class and an exam to go before all of the criteria is met to REALLY be a Licensed Loan Originator.

Recently at Rain City Guide…

I have been meaning to highlight post over at Rain City Guide on a more regular basis…I’m slipping!   Here are a few I thought you might benefit from reading (or just click on over and check them all out).

Earlier this month, Jillayne tackled why you should not shop interest rates by APR.  This is a must read if you are a "rate shopper".

There have been a couple post forecasting the future of our local real estate marketing, including this one from Ardell and Jon featured two posts that inspired reactions from the "Bubble Bloggers".

If you’re considering buying home at a new construction site, then Ardell’s post is a good read for you regarding dealing with site agents and when lots are released.

Yours truly added two post to RCG dealing with zero down buyers and the future for subprime borrowers.

Enjoy!

It Pays to Plan for College

Mpj038725100001My son will be entering high school next year.  I really can’t believe it.  If all goes as it should, he’ll be in college in four years!  I did start a 529 account for him a few years ago…much later than I should have, but I’m thankful that we have it.   

Yesterday,  Ben Bernanke said…a "key observation is that over the past few decades, the real wage of workers with more years of formal education have increased more quickly than those of workers with fewer years of formal education.  For example, in 1979 – median earnings for workers with a Bachelor’s or higher degree were 38% more than those of high-school graduates with no college experience; last year, the difference was 75%." 

Do you have children that you’re planning to help finance their college tuition?  I would love it if my son receives a full scholarship…however, I certainly can’t depend on that.   Salary.com has an useful college tuition calculator for crunching tuition dollars.

For example, assuming your child attends a public in-state college with a tuition, room & board of approx. $12000 per year (factoring in tuition inflation).  Both scenarios are using a return of 6% on the investments.

Scenario A:   Future college bound student is currently 3 years old.  Total est. tuition cost to be saved:  $101,500.   Here are some options:

  • Start investing $384 per month for 15 years, or
  • Do a lump sum today in the amount of $44,850, or
  • Lump sum today in the amount of $15,700 plus $250 per month for 15 years.

Scenario B:  Future High School freshman, currently 14 years old (gulp).  Total estimated tuition cost to be saved to go to the same college as Scenario A:  $62,850 (less time for inflation).   Here are the same options:

  • Start investing $1,200 per month for 4 years, or
  • Do a lump sum today in the amount of $50,000, or
  • Do a lump sum today in the amount of $39,400 and $250 per month for four years.

If $250 seems like a bit too much to part with, you may want to consider meeting with your Mortgage Planner and/or Financial Planner in order to review your current debt structure.   A 529 is just one option.  I like it for my scenario because the money I put in grows tax free.   And…I tell my son that if he doesn’t go to  college, I will select one of my nieces or nephews to be a benefactor!  Funny how that motivates him.  And, I don’t HAVE to do this…but I want to.  In my profession, I see many first time home buyers buried in student loans…some of the amounts can be staggering.

The bottom line is, the earlier you begin saving and planning for your child’s education, the more funds you will have for furthering their education and it will actually cost less to fund the education.  And…it’s never too late!