How Much Money are You Spending on Credit Cards?

Tis the season to buy gifts and many of us rely on our credit cards to do so. Not just at Christmas time, but throughout the entire year. It's a convenience many are dependent on. With the fees and interest banks charge for the convenience of credit cards, it's amazing what you really end up paying over the year(s) if you carry a balance. 

I encourage you to read your credit card statements this month as your statement will disclose just how much you paid in interest and fees this year. You may be rethinking the value of your mileage plan (like I am) or what ever "benefit", like airline miles, the bank is extending in trade for this indebtedness. It may be real tempting to close the account after seeing how much the cost for the credit is. Closing your established credit accounts may actually hurt your scores!

If you're considering a mortgage over the next few years, you may want to consider working on paying off the account and only using it once a month for small purchases (like gas or groceries) and paying it off monthly in order to optimize your credit score. Established credit helps your credit scores and your closed account, depending on what else you have impacting your credit, may lower your score. Likewise, new credit may bring down your credit scores – even if it's for doing something that is financially wise, like transferring credit card debt to a lower interest credit card. If you don't use credit cards, you may discover that you need to have established credit (typically three to four different active credit lines that are at least 1 – 2 years old) in order to qualify for a mortgage. Credit is a real catch-22 when it comes to qualifying for a mortgage and your credit scores.

If you own a home and have not yet refinanced, it could be worth your consideration. The additional savings from with your monthly mortgage payment could go towards reducing debt, like credit cards.  

I often work with my clients who are getting ready to buy a home to develop a strategy on paying off their debts, increasing credit scores and/or building savings, depending on what their financial goals are. If you are considering a mortgage to buy or refinance a home, do contact your local mortgage professional before taking action. I've often met with people who have done what would seem like "the right things" to improve their financial scenario, such tapping savings to pay off and closing all debts, only to learn they've wound up dropping their scores and reducing their savings.

I'm licensed to originate mortgages on homes located in Washington state and happy to help you with your home finance needs.

The Risk of Extended Closings

With more short sales taking place, many home buyers are having to wait months before their closing date is here. The same may be true for those who are buying homes that are being constructed.  With a delayed closing, there are some additional risk involved that buyers should be aware of so they can take action, when possible, to protect themselves. Some risks, borrowers have more control over than others. [Read more…]

How Disputes on Your Credit Report May Impact Obtaining a Mortgage

Reviewing your credit report and disputing information that is being wrongly reported about you is your right under the Fair Credit Reporting Act. Obtaining your credit report and making sure that it’s accurate is financially responsible and your duty to protect your credit. And the Federal Trade Commission provides you tips on how to dispute items on your credit report.  Did you know that lenders may not accept a credit report where it indicates there is a disputed item? 

It doesn’t matter if you have perfect credit or a low loan to value, Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac guidelines are forcing lenders to provide a credit report without disputes. I’ve recently had transactions where the borrower doesn’t recall disputing anything and the debtor doesn’t have record of the dispute yet this “dispute” needs to be removed from the credit report or the lender/bank will not accept the loan. This is one reason why anyone considering a mortgage for refinancing or purchasing a home should obtain a copy of their credit report very early on. It can take a great deal of time to have disputes removed if a borrower does this on their own.  

The other option is for a “rapid rescore” which whittles down the process to days. The irony in this is that rapid rescore is not free and it is the credit bureaus and reporting agencies who profit when this service is done – I really have a problem with this when my client and the creditor state there are no disputes of record yet somebody has to pay to have these items quickly removed to accommodate a closing date. Often times, the lender absorbs the cost of the rapid rescore however this eventually drives up the overall cost of doing business and eventually, the consumer pays.

In my opinion, this is something that Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac need to change pronto. Well qualified borrowers should not have to go through these hoops or have their mortgage denied. A simple written letter of explanation signed by the borrowers and possibly the creditor *should* suffice instead of requiring the credit report not show any sign of a dispute. Apparently back in 2009, Fannie was reviewing their policy however, I’m not aware of any significant changes.  

If our government wants to help the housing industry and our economy, this practice needs to stop now.

Shallow Credit can leave you in the Deep End when Qualifying for a Mortgage

Shallowcredit When in comes to qualifying for a mortgage, lenders are generally looking for borrowers who have established a history of paying their obligations on time. Ideally this would consist of four accounts that have been open and used for the last one to two years.  When someone does not have active accounts, or when their accounts are all new, their credit history appears “shallow” to some lenders. [Read more…]

Adjustments to Conventional Mortgage Pricing Means Higher Rates on January 1, 2011

UPDATE DEC 19, 2013: New (more expensive) LLPA’s have been released.

UPDATE JAN 3, 2011:  Not all lenders are implementing this fee increase (yet).  This is perfect example of an advantage of working with a correspondent lender since we work with more than one bank or one banks products/rates. 

Conventional mortgages (Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac) are increasing their LLPA, also known as “Loan-Level Price Adjustment” effective on all mortgages with a term greater than 15 years on loans they purchase on April 1, 2011 or later.   Although this doesn’t go into effect until April Fools, wholesale lenders will make these adjustments to their rate sheets well in advance so that they don’t have to take the price hit when the sell the loan to Fannie or Freddie.   I am receiving memos from the lenders we work with stating that these price adjustments will go into effect on loans locked January 3, 2011.

The new price adjustments are outlined in the red box below.  The changed adjustements are in bold in the red box (click on image to enlarge).  You can view Fannie Mae’s complete LLPA schedule here – there are additional hits that may apply depending on your scenario (such as condos, subordinate financing, etc.).

FannieLLPA

LLPA’s are nothing new.  We’ve had them for the past couple of years and the adjustments are typically factored into your rate.  Remember, typically (but not always) 1% in fee equals 0.25% in rate.   So if your “low-mid” credit score is 700 – 719 and your loan to value is 75.01% or higher, your interest rate is going to be about 0.25% higher in rate than someone with a 740 or higher credit score with a loan to value of 60.01 – 75%.

The hardest hit with this adjustment is borrowers with credit scores of 699 – 640 with loan to values over 80%.   These borrowers should consider FHA insured loans for financing which do not have the same level of price hits as conventional (at this time).

The best pricing is for borrowers with credit scores 700 or higher AND a loan to value of 60% or lower.   Borrowers with a 740 or higher credit score and less than 25% down payment or home equity will now be hit with a 0.25% adjustment.

These price hits impacts loan amounts of $567,500 or lower for homes located in King, Snohomish and Pierce Counties.   For a complete list of Washington state conforming loan limits, click here.

Risk based pricing is one more reason why people who are considering a mortgage, regardless of if it’s to purchase a new home in Seattle or refinance their existing home in Bellevue, should start early with the preapproval process.  Just being one digit off on your low-mid credit score may cost you.  A qualified mortgage professional can help you make the right moves with the goal of improving  your credit score if given enough time.

If you need a mortgage for a home located in Washington State, I’m happy to help you.  I’ve been originating mortgages at Mortgage Master Service Corporation since April 2000 and I’ve been licensed since 2007 (when mortgage originator licensing was first mandated in Washington).

My Interview on NPR: Credit and Refinancing

If you listen to the soothing voices of NPR in the mornings, you may have heard NPR's Wendy Kaufman's interview discussing the challenges of refinancing with lower credit scores.  I actually meet with Wendy about a week ago in Bellevue so she could interview me for this piece which I'm told will be airing again around 8:50 this morning PST on KPLU (88.5 a.m.).

You can also read the text version which includes a link to the broadcast:  Home Loan Blues: Refinancing Isn't So Easy

Here are some points I'd like to add to the interview:

It is more challenging to refinance (or purchase) in today's market.  Especially if you compare it to the wild subprime era of a few years ago…however the pendulum is still swinging tighter.  Mortgage guidelines absolutely needed to swing back from subprime, however some people may surprised to experience a mortgage transaction today.   The broadcast included a borrower who had to take clear copies of his documents–that would have happened before too assuming his supporting documentation (bank statements) were even required.   Today's underwriter is asking a lot more "why" instead of simply checking off a box that was generated by a streamlined automated underwriting system.  Qualifying for a mortgage is not impossible but you do need to be cooperative and provide what your mortgage professional asks of you…including that last page of your bank statement, even if it's blank.

With regards to credit scoring, we continue to see the minimum allowed credit score being raised.  It used to be that a 700 credit score or higher was considered great.  Now there are three different credit score "brackets" with conforming mortgages if your score is in the 700 range.   With higher loan to value loans, like FHA, many lenders are requiring a mid-score of 640 or higher (some lenders may go lower but I expect their credit score standards to increase too at a higher rate).

There are programs available for refinancing your home if you have lost equity and/or have a lower credit score.  If home owners currently have an FHA mortgage or conforming mortgage that qualifies for a Home Affordable Refi, they may still be able to take advantage of today's low rates.  If your home is located in Washington state, I'm happy to review your scenario at no obligation to see if refinancing makes sense for you. 

Listen to the NPR interview where I discuss credit scores.

 

Does Your Mortgage Originators Credit Score Matter to You?

Would you work with a mortgage originator who has a 620 credit score?   Would you prefer to work with a mortgage originator who has a 720 or higher credit score?   Does how someone manages their credit history important to you if they are providing you advice about credit scoring and/or helping you with one of the largest debts you may have in your lifetime?

Starting November 1, 2010, the NMLS and Washington State DFI will begin pulling credit reports on LICENSED mortgage originators.  This is one of the final "background" checks being performed as required by the SAFE Act.  If a mortgage originator works for a depository bank (like Chase, Wells Fargo, Bank of America, Washington Federal, etc.) or any credit union, they will not have their credit pulled and reported to DFI.

I'm not aware of what the "magic number" is that DFI will use for weeding out mortgage originators with lower scores.  I believe they're looking more at credit history than the actual score…but I don't know for sure.  

What I do know is that mortgage originators who are licensed are held to higher standards per the SAFE Act than mortgage originators who are merely registered.   If you're curious about whether or not your mortgage professional is registered (bank/union union LO's) or licensed, you can visit www.nmlsconsumeraccess.org.

What should I do about my credit score, if anything?

I was asked this question via a friend on Facebook:

I had a 785 mid score, with 3 open trade lines (all at less than 30%) until the bank dropped my credit limit to the exact dollar amount of my balances. Now I'm down in the 714 range. I'm now considered a low-mid risk…hmmmmmmmmmpppphhhh! Only way out I can see is paying off Visa.

On the flip side, I don't need my credit score now…don't need a mortgage re-fi, and already have all the insurance I need.

It's pretty stinky when banks reduce your total available credit because the side effect is, your credit is dinged.  What the bank has effectively done is make it appear as though you're a credit user who has maxxed out their credit cards to their limit!  I'd probably contact the bank manager to express you disappointment (to put it mildly) and to see if they will correct this and to learn why they did this.

Credit scoring modules reward borrowers who use 30% or less of their available credit line.  Borrowers who use less 50% or less of their available credit also receive favorable scores.   Borrowers are also being whammo'd by banks when they reduce their home equity lines of credit (HELOCs) if it increases their loan to value over 50%.

If this person was interested in improving their credit score, their goal could be to work on getting each credit card paid down to 50% of the new credit line limit.  I would start with the smallest debt first as the credit scoring system doesn't distinguish between a $5,000 credit card limit or $500 credit card limit.  If this borrower has a $500 limit and they pay it down to $250, it should have the same impact as paying the $5,000 down to $2,500.  Once one card is paid down to 50% of the new limit, continue to make minimum monthly payments and move on to the next lowest credit line limit and repeat until all of your credit cards are under 50% of the available credit line.  The next level of improvement would be to pay your credit cards down to 30% of your credit line limit; so if your lowest credit card line is $500 and you've been maintaining a $250 balance, the next target would be 30% of the credit line or $150 (500 x 30%).

I do not recommend paying off credit cards completely and closing if they're older as the credit scoring modules love established credit with a good history.  You can use your cards to fill your gas tank or buy groceries and paying it off monthly.

Of course, if you don't really care what your credit score is currently because you're not planning on making purchases that will require your credit score, you don't have to do anything.  However, I think it's best to try to have a credit score of 740 or higher as so many things in our lives are priced based on our credit scores. 

Related posts you might find interesting:

New Credit Card Regulations and Games Creditors Play

Overdraft Protection and Your Credit Score

The Fed is Getting Tougher on Credit Card Companies