Is 5% Down Available for Homes Priced from up to $600,000?

June 3, 2008 by 6 Comments

EDITORS NOTE – August 30, 2009: Mortgage guidelines are constantly changing–please make sure to get updated guidelines from a local mortgage professional.  This post was written under DU 7.0 and at this time, we are utilizing Fannie Mae/DU Version 7.1.

In King, Snohomish and Pierce County, FHA Jumbo will allow you to put 3% down as long as your loan amount is $567,500 or below.   The buyer's required investment is 3% of the sales price (which can be gifted from a family member) and the seller can contribute up to 6%.   Utilizing a FHA Jumbo, one could by $585,000 with as little as 3% down or up to around $595,000 with 5% down and still be within the FHA loan limits.  The debt to income ratios are typically around 43%.   Click here for more information on FHA Jumbo.

At 5% down with a sales price of $585,000, the FHA scenario would look like this:

Principal and interest @ 6.375% (APR 7.140%): $3,514.50 plus monthly mortgage insurance of $231.56 for a sub-total (not including taxes and home owners insurance) of: $3,746.06.

Amount needed to close estimated at $43,000.  Buyer required investment = $17,550 (3% which can be gifted from a family member).

A conforming-jumbo will allow a 90% loan to value but good luck finding a second mortgage that will accommodate that–most second mortgages are limiting their total loan to value of 85%.  Private mortgage insurance is an option up to 90% loan to value with a loan amount of $567,500.  With a sales price of $600,000, 10% down would provide a loan amount of $540,000.   At 10% down, the seller can contribute up to 6% as long as the buyer has invested a minimum of 5% of their own funds into the transaction. 

Principal and interest @ 6.125% (APR 6.373%): $4,555.10 $3,281.10 plus monthly mortgage insurance in the amount of $316.85 for a sub-total (not including taxes and home owners insurance) of: $4,871.95 $3,597.95.

Amount needed to close estimated at $73,000.  Buyers required investment: $30,000 (5% which must be their own funds–gifts from family not included in the 5% down).

Fannie Mae just released DU 7.0 which promises to provide fewer loan approvals and more "expanded approvals".  Before 7.0, 45% was the maximum debt to income ratio. This new version was released on May 31, 2008.

Note:  Both scenarios are assuming mid-credit scores of 720 or better.  A 719 will cause the rate to be 0.125% higher for the jumbo-conforming example or to cost 0.500% more in fee.   For FHA, the rate would remain the same with a 719 score (and down to a 620 mid score).

I think you'll agree that we'll be seeing more FHA approved buyers than before…this is why Sellers and Real Estate Agents should learn more about FHA and be open to FHA buyers…it's not the FHA of yesteryear in fact, FHA is the future.

Filed Under: FHA, Jumbo/Non-Conforming, Residential Purchase

Gimme Five! Comparing Today’s 5 Year ARM to a 30 Year Fixed

May 24, 2008 by Leave a Comment

Highfive

There is currently about a 0.75% difference in rate between the conforming 30 year fixed and 5/1 ARM and 0.625% in rate with conforming-jumbo loans.  Is that enough for you to opt for an adjustable rate mortgage?

Beyond the obvious question: "how long do you plan on retaining the mortgage or staying in your home?"   Here are some other stats to consider based on rates I quoted Friday morning using a purchase of $500,000 with a loan amount of $400,000.   The closing costs on both loans are identical.

30 year fixed at 5.75% (APR 5.902%) has a principal and interest payment of $2,334.

5/1 ARM at 5.000% (APR 6.759%) has a principal and interest payment of $2,147.  This is a monthly savings of $187.

The 5/1 ARM is fixed for 60 months and will then the rate is re-calculated.   The 5/1 used in this scenario is a 5/1 LIBOR with a margin of 2.25% and caps of 5/2/5.   For now, lets review your savings over the 60 month period.

The 5/1 ARM will save $11,220 over the 30 year in five years in payment alone. 

30 year fixed at 5 years has paid $28,951 towards principal and has an estimated balance of $371,049.   $111,106 has been paid towards interest (no benefit towards your prinicpal, however it may be a tax benefit).

5/1 ARM at 60 months has paid $32,663 towards principal and has an estimated remaining balance of $367,337.   $96,228 has been paid towards interest.

Over a five year period, the net (interest) savings of the 5/1 ARM over the 30 year fixed assuming you do not make any additional payments towards principal is $14,878.

So what happens if someone decides to select a 5/1 ARM and 60 months later, they’re keeping the home?  They can refinance or not based on what the current market and what their finacial plans are.  The monthly savings over 60 months is plenty to cover the typical cost of a refinance ($2000-$2500) assuming rates are not favorable enough to opt for a "no cost refi".

If you decide to retain the mortgage, you will add the margin of 2.25% to the current 1 Year LIBOR rate when your mortgage is adusting.  (As of today, the 1 Year LIBOR is around 3.067%).   Your mortgage is reamortized based on the remaining term (25 years at the first adjustment).   The caps with this particular ARM are 5/2/5 meaning that the highest your rate can adjust is to a steep 10% and the lowest your rate will be at the first adjustment is 2.25%.   That’s a huge range and whatever your rate will be depends entirely on LIBOR.   Some 5 year ARMS offer caps of 2/2/6 which would limit the first adjustment to 2%–the initial rate is typically slightly higher.   Do learn exactly what your cap, margin and index are before you accept any adjustable rate mortgage.

I suggest considering the following:

What is your risk tolerance?  Will having a mortgage with the potential to adjust in 5 years give you a rash or cause you to lose sleep at night? 

How long do you plan on staying in the home or retaining the mortgage?  If you have a tendancy to refinance when rates improve or if this is a home (such as a starter home) where you may not keep it for 5 years, you may want to consider the ARM. 

Picture your life and where you and your family may be five years from now.   Is your income stable or growing?  Do you have retirement in your sights?

How disiplined are you?  $187 per month could make an impact on paying off non-tax preferred debt, paying down principal or building your savings.  Pay yourself the $187 per month in an interest bearing account at 3% and you’ll have $12,000 more in 60 months in addition to the other savings.

Regardless of what program you select for your mortgage…the choice is yours and it is your responsibility to learn as much as you can about the program–ask questions! 

Do you have an existing mortgage you’re unsure of?  Has your loan originator left the mortgage industry?  I’m happy to help Washington State home owners with their mortgage needs–including reviewing your existing financing, such as ARMS.  My mortgage adoption program does not require any refinancing or new mortgage.

Filed Under: Adjustable Rate Mortgage (ARM), Financial Planning, Mortgage, Residential Purchase

Why Your Loan Originator Needs a Complete Application BEFORE Locking a Rate

May 19, 2008 by Leave a Comment

A home owner contacted me wanting to know how their rate could change so much from their original lock with his current lender for his refinance.   He thought this was his scenario:

15 Year Fixed Rate at 5.375% (I’m assuming that he was paying a point–I cannot tell from this lenders lock confirmation).  Here are the other factors this rate was based on for a $417,000 loan amount:

  • Rate Term Refinance (no cash out, he’s actually bringing cash to closing in order to bring his loan amount down to the conforming level).
  • 700 Mid Scores
  • 62% Loan to Value

The LO locked in the rate based on this information about two weeks ago and just provided a "lock confirmation".  It’s actually a lock request with the lender she’s brokering the loan to.   Two weeks later, the borrower finds out that his loan is being priced based on the following:

15 Year Fixed Rate at 5.75% or 15 Year Fixed Rate at 5.375% plus 1.50 additional points.  Why the change?  After 2 weeks, the LO lets the borrower know that the loan is repriced due to:

  • Cash Out Refinance = 0.75% Hit to Fee.  He has a second mortgage that is being paid off with the refinance that was not from when he purchased his home. Fannie/Freddie classify this (paying off a non-purchase money second) as a "cash out" refinance, even though he’s bringing cash to closing.
  • 627 Mid Credit Score with a 70% loan to value = 0.75% Hit to Fee.  This came to a surprise to the borrower who actually thought his scores were much higher.  With Fannie/Freddie’s credit score (risked based) pricing, this is another whammo to the borrower.

Cash out and the borrowers credit scores should have been known to the Loan Originator if not prior to locking the loan, then mere moments afterward.  The LO should have immediately notified their client of the differences between the information used to lock the mortgage and reality.

Loan to value can be tricky for a LO to know with certainty…especially these days.  We often have to rely on our clients to give us an honest estimate of what they feel their home is worth based on what other homes like theirs have sold for in their neighborhood.   Until we have the appraisal, we do not know how the home will be valued.    

I’m sharing this story because there are valuable lessons here for us to learn from.

Borrowers:

  1. If you’re serious about locking in a mortgage rate, complete a loan application for your Mortgage Professional and allow them to run your credit.
  2. Obtain a written Lock Confirmation within 48 hours of locking in your rate.
  3. If you smell something fishy…it’s probably shark.

Loan Originators:

  1. If you have bad news (lower credit score, repriced lock, low appraisal, etc.) deliver it right away.  Don’t wait…it’s not going to go away.  Let your client know in full detail what you’re having to deal with and what steps you’re going to take to remedy with.
  2. Whenever the terms or cost of the proposed mortgage change, contact your client and provide them with an updated Good Faith Estimate. 

Currently, this borrower feels the LO gambled his mortgage interest rate.  After reviewing the documentation I’ve been provided, I think it’s more likely that she was just really a really poor communicator.   Perhaps she was hoping rates would improve enough to absorb the significant 1.5% hit to fee…I can really only guess.

This is far more than a getting a "rate quote" and saying, "that sounds good, lock it".  When you’re locking in your interest rate, you are commiting to the Loan Originator and the Loan Originator is making a commitment to the lender that the loan will be funded.  Your lock is only as good as the information used when it was submitted to the lender. 

Filed Under: Mortgage, Predatory Lending, Refinance, Residential Purchase

How to Apply On-Line for a Mortgage Preapproval

May 6, 2008 by Leave a Comment

I recently had this excellent question from one my readers who is interested in getting preapproved:

I began filling out the loan application on the web, but stopped once I reached the part about the specific property, as I don’t currently have a property in mind.  I believe what I am seeking to do [is] a true preapproval letter.  I did read your post which clarified the difference between prequalification and preapproval.  Is there a way to submit the full-doc information to you electronically to start the process for preapproval?

Mortgage Porter’s On-line Application (under Favorite Links) allows you to apply for mortgage preapproval before you have a property address.   This is question is very valid because there is not a formal way to select that the property has not yet been found.  Ideally, home buyers should get preapproved before they make an offer on a home.  Anyhow, where the application asks for a property address, simply enter:

123 TBD St., Your City, WA, Your Zip  (NOTE:  I’m only licensed to help those who need a mortgage in Washington State).

During these historic times in our mortgage industry (and actually, in any time) it’s crucial to get preapproved BEFORE you begin to shop for your next home.

I’m really glad that I was emailed this question so I could address it…otherwise, I might not have caught this.   Thanks!

Filed Under: Mortgage, Residential Purchase, Tech/Tools of the Trade

So You’ve Just Become a Home Owner…Feeling Popular?

April 21, 2008 by 2 Comments

You will soon feel quite popular if you’ve just bought a home or at least your mail box will be with tons of junk mail.  Over the weekend I received an email from one of my clients who closed on their new home last month:

"As I’m sure is typical, we’re being deluged with mortgage junk mail.  I see you have several highlights of particularly bad ones you’ve seen, but is there any way to stop the flood?  I know there’s a marker you can put on your credit report that stops credit card offers – is there anything similar for mortgages?"

In a nutshell, your Deed and Deed of Trust are recorded at the county which become "public record".  There are companies that research, buy and resale this information to those wanting to reach out to new homeowners.  You’re more popular than you’ve ever wanted to be…it’s the welcome wagon of junk mail.   What’s worse is that some companies will present the information as if they are a part of or teamed up with your lender.   

Please check back with your original lender before taking up some of these offers to verify if they are indeed from your mortgage company–the trickery they will resort is amazing and sickening.

Here’s a great article that I read another local blog, A Generous People regarding getting rid of junk mail.  I hope it helps!  In the meantime, I recommend opening your mail over your recycle bin. 

Filed Under: Predatory Lending, Rant, Residential Purchase

The Current Value of a Preapproval Letter

April 1, 2008 by Leave a Comment

Fellow Rain City Guide Contributor, Tim Kane wrote an interesting post while I was on vacation asking if preapproval letters are worth their ink in our current market.  Truth be told, this was a valid question prior to our current market conditions and has been for years.   The true worth of the preapproval letter prior to the mortgage "melt down" was based on the merit of the loan originator who was preparing the letter.   I’ve addressed this issue before here and here.   Anyone can type a letter or issue a fancy certificate; has the borrower really submitted supporting documents verify their income, employment and assets required per underwriting (i.e. the borrower has been credit underwritten)?   

The fact is, in today’s current mortgage climate, where loan programs are terminated, guidelines tightened, private mortgage insurance restricted and geographical areas are being deemed soft: a preapproval letter is not any sort of guarantee that a home buyer will be able to close on a proposed home purchase.   

So why bother with preapproval letters?  Here is the current value of a true preapproval letter:

  • It demonstrates that the buyer has completed loan application and is preapproved at that moment for a specific product.   
  • There is a level of commitment that a buyer has if they have provided all of their documentation to a lender over one who has not taken the steps to become preapproved.
  • You know who the loan originator and lender is that the buyer is working with.   I’ve recommended before, and especially do now, that Selling and Listing Agents give the Loan Originator a friendly phone call to introduce yourself…allowing you to see if the LO passes "the smell test".

What can you do if preapproval letters are worth less than they were before?

  • I recommend that all buyers with a credit score below 700 and/or using less than 20% down have a "Plan B" for their mortgage scenario.   Consider "what if" the mortgage scenario they are current approved for is terminated with no notice from the lender or if the area they are buying a home in is considered soft?  Is your Loan Originator able to offer FHA or VA financing?  Note:  FHA and VA jumbos are quite attractive.
  • Home buyers should start even earlier in the home buying process (six months to a year is fine).  A Mortgage Professional can help improve credit scores and provide advise on how work on where they may need more strength to be on the best position possible to buy a home.
  • Allow more time for preapprovals from lenders.  Underwriting (and appraisals) are taking more time in this climate.   Everything is being reviewed under a microscope.
  • Review your current preapproval with your Loan Originator.  There have been recent pullbacks with private mortgage insurance (including LPMI, Fannie Flex and Freddie Mac higher LTV products).
  • Home Buyers should discuss with their Real Estate Agent (not the Listing Agent) the "what ifs" of losing their financing and how it may impact their earnest money deposit.
  • Listing Agents should have their preferred Mortgage Professional review the preapproval letter should their be any doubt regarding the letter in question.  The preferred Mortgage Professional can at the very least provide some valid questions for the Listing Agent to ask the loan originator and Selling Agent.

This market demands that you select a Mortgage Professional based on ability, expertise, commitment and available products.   Trying to get the lowest rate in a market where rates change up to 3 to 5 times per day is insanity.  A true Mortgage Professional will provide you with the most competitve rate available considering your current mortgage plan. 

Filed Under: Current Affairs, Mortgage, Mortgage Insurance, Residential Purchase

Recently on Rain City Guide

March 26, 2008 by Leave a Comment

I can’t tell you how honored I am to be a part of Seattle’s Rain City Guide.  Here are a couple of recent posts that I really encourage you to check out…

Jillayne Schlicke just wrote a dead on post regarding our local situation with affiliated business arrangements between real estate, title and escrow and mortgage companies.  This is a topic close to my heart as before I was in lending (8 years ago), I was in the title insurance industry for 14 years.  I’ve seen drastic changes over this time since large real estate companies have entered into arrangements with title companies.   Now the State is stepping in with new regulations.   Read Jillayne’s post: Title Insurance Affiliated Business Arrangements Under Scrutiny.

ARDELL wrote a very timely post: Should You Buy Before You Sell?  Her answer is NO!  And during these times, I’m likely to agree.   Bridge loans may be hard to come by and properties are taking longer to sell.

Don’t forget…I’m on vacation and will return on April 1.

Filed Under: Residential Purchase, Title Insurance, Weblogs Tagged With: ,

It’s Official: Zero Down is Gone

March 21, 2008 by 6 Comments

Iceage_2Unless you’re eligible for VA financing within the conforming loan limits, 100% LTV financing (aka "zero down") is no longer available in the conforming mortgage markets.   

The following products are extinct:

  • Fannie Mae Flex 100
  • Freddie Mac 100
  • My Community Mortgage 100
  • Home Possible 100

If you are short on down payment with credit scores below 680, you should consider FHA financing, which is not as credit score sensitive as conventional programs.  Fannie Mae Flex 97 is still available as well as Home Possible 97.  Both conforming programs allow for 3% down.

Home buyers should also plan on having "reserves" after closing.  The amount of reserves may vary depending on the program from 2 – 6 months of proposed mortgage payments for owner occupied when it’s said and done.   Real estate agents, your first time home buyers may need help with closing costs from Sellers…if they’re willing…in order to meet the reserve account conditions. 

We’re rolling back the underwriting guidelines…not all the way back to the ice age…but close!

If you’re considering buying a home or refinancing, meet with your Mortgage Professional sooner than later so you have time review your credit and consider your options.

Filed Under: Credit Scores and Reporting, Current Affairs, FHA, First Time Home Buyer, Residential Purchase
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